Wednesday, 14 November 2007

the deck

Finally it's time to add the deck. We've left it as long as possible so that we didn't do it any damage while building and painting. It's going to be bright finished Fijian Kauri, and every mark and ding will show.

Marking out the first piece. 4.5mm 3 ply bends nice and easily.


I'm pretty pleased with how it looks.


The bottom of the deck is epoxy coated before we glue it on. We're currently debating whether it needs painting or not.

Since we're varnishing the deck, we've taped and papered it while we work on it to avoid making any marks. Epoxy with glue powder will leave a stain that you'll never sand out. (A lesson I learnt the hard way when I replaced the deck on my Starling dinghy a few years ago.)

We cut the deck oversize and screwed it to temporary battens along the side while the glue dries.

1:30 this morning, getting pretty tired!

Monday, 12 November 2007

myth busters: special home edition

The Myth:
That you can successfully steam bend timber at home, using little more than an old brake fluid drum, a weed burner and the draw bar that’s waiting to be welded into your boat's new trailer!



Up till now we’ve managed to bend all the timber onto the boat using only brute force and sheer ignorance. It’s mostly worked; we’ve only broken a few stringers. And a couple of pieces of ply on that over ambitious reverse curve in the bow.

But when we had a quick try with the top outer gunwale we realised there was no way we were going to get it on. It’s Fijian Kauri 35mm by 18mm, and it curves in both directions. A bit of research told us that others either cut it in two or slowly bent it round tightening it a bit every day. Neither of these appealed to us.

Steam bending has always seemed like the next frontier of boat building to me. Like it was a bit beyond us, in the realm of serious boat builders. We did a bit of reading, but I doubted that we’d cobble together something that would work. Even if we managed to get the steam going, whether we’d get that tight curve in the timber would be another thing.


Come Saturday morning, here’s what we had sitting on the drive.

It took us a while to get things working. Once the water in the drum was boiling, we found you need a decent incline on the chamber to get the steam coming through. The chamber had to be hot before we could do anything, so at the start we hurried it up with the gas torch and a heat gun ;o) .

The temperature measured at the far end of the chamber.

Seeing this is myth busters, at this stage I’d say:

There’s a 3% chance we’re going to create a massive explosion and just blow everything up.
There’s a 40% chance we just make the wood warm and wet.
A 25% chance we scorch and burn it.
A 10% chance it works out successfully.
A 20% chance of Zac seriously burning his hands.
And a 2% chance we actually get to go sailing before Christmas.


Yes! After about an hour we got a nice steady supply of steam.

We decided to put a practice piece first (although it was difficult to sacrifice a nice piece of Fijian kauri).

Dad stokes the fire.

After 35 minutes we pulled the practice piece out. It bent round very easily, although it was thinner. The problem was all this black stuff from the inside of the steel section.

We drew rags back and forth through the chamber to try and clean it. We also cable tied these bits of hose to the timber to try and keep it from sitting on the surface.

Here's the piece sitting ready to go in. You can also see our scarf cutting jig, each gunwale has one join in them.

Having the chamber at this temperature worked really well. We steamed them for about 45-50 minutes each. They say you have 5 seconds once the timber comes out to get the shape in it, and that was definitely the case for us. You could still move it a bit as it cooled, but it was only easy for the first few seconds.

That time limit makes things fairly intense! We still had to apply plenty of brute force. And it was quite frantic getting the clamps on as well as protective blocks of wood.

Here's a vid of the last piece going on. This was by far the calmest (least yelling) and most successful. You can see how we get the bend in it as soon as we pull it out, as we carry it down (this was rehearsed, several times).
In the end it worked remarably well. The plan now is to leave the clamps on for a couple of days while the timber realigns. We'll have to take them off while we glue the deck on, and then glue and screw them on the following day.
This myth is proven!

the cockpit is painted!

Finally we’ve finished painting. Four undercoats and two topcoats. This boat is a lot bigger on the inside than the outside. (In surface area anyway!)

We’ve got to come back and add some non-slip to the floor and seat tops, but we’re waiting for it to get plenty hard before we climb back in.


Drilling the holes for the bow-eye was every bit as horrible and scary as it looks. We drilled it oversize and then ran lots of epoxy inside to seal it. We’ll drill it back to the correct size and seal the bow eye with flexible silicon sealant.


Wednesday, 31 October 2007

sand, sand, sand, sand, bacon, eggs and sand

13 combined hours to sand the epoxy coat!
We put on the first undercoat as a kind of sacrificial coat, to show us all the holes and checks that needed filling and we couldn't see before. Then, of course, we sanded most of it off.

The distressed look. Maybe it's okay in a kitchen but I'd rather not see it on my boat.

Monday, 22 October 2007

laminations

We’re laminating the tiller, bowsprit and traveller arch out of Fijian kauri and sapele.

Our cabinet maker friend Murray Jordan ripped and thicknessed the timber for us.
The tiller and traveller arch are laminated.


And the Bowsprit (clamping it up felt like playing foosball!). We’re building it a little larger than plans as we’ll be flying a gennaker off it.

coaming stringer & epoxy coating

It’s taken four weeks to complete all the coving in the corners. Now it’s done we've glued on the coaming stringer. (We didn’t want it to get in the way before.)


We’ve gave the whole cockpit a coat of epoxy resin, and two coats on high wear areas like floor, seat tops and seat fronts. This is really hard and should protect the timber as well as being a great primer.



Joe dries the boat after scrubbing the amine blush off from the epoxy.
The framing is all ready for the deck to go on. I’ve planed the gunwale and coaming stringers down.

Friday, 28 September 2007

seat radius & ancient epoxy

Well with three months to go our deadline is pretty tight. The main sail has been completed and the others will be soon too. The spars have been ordered. We’re putting in a lot of hours. The majority are being sucked up in sanding and coving. Our biggest problem is the epoxy we have to clean up from when we were building.

Having built boats before, we preached the “clean up all the epoxy as you go” sermon to ourselves. We thought we’d done a reasonable job until now when we’re trying to finish off. One – two year old epoxy is very hard.

We’ve glued the seat fronts on now, and built in the back seat. We’ve departed from the plans here. Normally the seat tops overhang the fronts by about two inches.
As you can see we’ve sloped the fronts and are rounding the corner off. This should give us more space, be more comfortable and make her a bit racier.
Before and after.

Friday, 7 September 2007

seats

We've glued the seat tops on. Coving underneath wasn't the most comfortable..
We've put the skirts round the boat to protect the paint work (no we're not hiding a HULA ;-).
We glued doublers to the back of the seat fronts for the inspection ports and to strength them.
Well how else were we going to hold them in place? The supermarket had a special on clamps :o)